'Journal for H. Majesty's Caledonia, 1833'.

visited by the Grand Pasha at Smyrna

An important visual record of the Eastern Mediterranean in the aftermath of the Greek Revolution, with particularly striking original watercolours of the towns of Smyrna [Ismir] and Mytilene, and a lively descriptive narrative of life at sea and of the ports, towns and people encountered along the way. In total, illustrated with 17 original watercolours and 3 hand-coloured lithographic plates.

The author and artist Henry Shinn (1813-1841) was a Corporal in the Royal Marines stationed aboard the HMS Caledonia, a 120-gun first-rate ship of the line, and the flagship of Admiral Sir Josias Rowley, Commander-in-Chief of the Mediterranean Fleet. The journal documents the Caledonia's progress from Portsmouth in 1833 to its arrival and tour in the Eastern Mediterranean, where the squadron was stationed in support of the newly independent Kingdom of Greece.

Touring the Aegean, the Caledonia makes stops at various Greek islands before arriving at the Turkish city of Smyrna, where on 19th June 1834 they were visited by the Grand Pasha who 'appeared advanced in years and was attended by his two Dragomans or guards in their Turkish costume, on his leaving the ship a salute was fired as a compliment'.

Shinn goes on to give a detailed account of the city, depicted in a full-page watercolour, which 'is of very large dimensions being adorned with lofty mosques', including a lengthy description of their arrival in the harbour on 16th June: 'we proceeded up the river to the city of Smyrna, the passage leading up to which is of a most delightful and picturesque appearance. The bank on each side is studied with numerous Turkish villas or Kiosks and in one part a large battery commands the river called Coup de Lions, the hill is covered with vineyards and olive groves while numerous numerous caravans are to be seen daily journeying to and from Smyrna and Constantinople'.

In July, the Caledonia set sail for Mytilene in Lesbos, which is depicted in another full-page watercolour, and was at the time a possession of the Ottoman Empire. A 'large castle commands the entrance on the right with the Turkish colours flying... the Pacha or Bashar House is embosomed in groves of olive and cypress trees and has a very romantic and beautiful appearance'.

Other highlights include a visit by Otto, the King of Greece, who came aboard the Caledonia in the harbour of 'Napoli de Romania' [Nafplio] 'accompanied by his ministers and Greek chiefs, he is a fine looking young man about 22 years of age and stands 6 feet in height, the yard[s] were manned and a Royal salute of 21 guns was given him in honour of the Greekish nation', and an account of the 'Island of Scio' [Chios] — destroyed in 1822 'it still possesses a romantic and agreeable appearance, the vineyards growing among the ruins and olive trees scattered over the whole length of the town'.

The journal is further full of observations topographical: 'the remarkable remains of Grecian antiquity - the plains of Argos where Hercules slew the hundred headed Hydra', and ethnographical: the Turks 'carry a long amber headed pipe and a curiously wrought bag of tobbacco [sic] slung by their side [...] and the women are veiled excepting one eye'. All of life (and death) at sea is here; from riddles with which the sailors entertained one another, to the visits, when in port, of local inhabitants 'of both sexes', and the alarming rate with which members of the crew expire, even when not engaged in combat. Accidents at sea, and occasionally ashore, are recorded, along with the immolation of a neighbouring ship in harbour when her gunpowder ignited, 'the neglect attributed to the captain lighting a fire on board'.

Manuscript journal; small 4to (20.5 x 15 cm); illustrated watercolour title, 17 watercolour illustrations, including 1 folding, 3 mounted coloured lithographic illustrations (one loosely inserted); the largest of the illustrations (pasted in as a folding plate) is frayed at the edges, a little marginal soiling, but clean and legible; marbled wrappers, very good; [80]pp.